Isaac wallaoh



(N0Mode1.)" I v I. WALLACE SHIRT.

No'. 260,716. Patented July 4, 1882.

Imewtor:

N. PETERS. Phqio-Lillmgraphur. Wuhingiun, D. C.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ISAAC WALLAOH, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO B. WALLAGHS SONS,

' OF SAME PLACE.

SHIRT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 260,716, dated July 4, 1882.

Application filed May 12, 1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ISAAC VVALLAGH, of New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shirts; and I do hereby declare that the following is afull,clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, making part of this application.

My invention relates to certain new and useful improvements in that kind of shirts and analogous garments in which a collar of some sort is permanently attached to the neckband of the garment in a manner which permits the turning inward and out of sight of'the collar 'or the exposure of the latter outside of the shirt, and has for its main objects to provide for use garments of the kind mentioned constructed so as to fit better and be easier to make and more desirable in all respects than such garments made according to any mode of construction practiced heretofore.

To these main ends and objects my invention consists primarily in a shirt or analogous garment having the permanently-attached collar thereof united therewithby attachment at its root or base to the inner side of the garment and below the lower edge of the neck band of the latter, as will be hereinafter more fully explained; and my invention consists, secondarily, in a shirt or analogous garment having the permanently-attached collar thereof secured thereto at the inner side of the garment and below the upper edge of the garment, and having such collar made thinner (and hence more pliable) during that portion of its Width where it has to befolded around the neckband than during the rest of its width, whereby a less number of thicknesses occur where the collar is turned over the neckband, all as will be hereinafter more fully explained.

To enable those skilled in the art to make and use garments embodying my invention, I will now proceed to more fully describe the latter, referring by letters to the accompanying drawings, which form part of this specification, and in which I have shown my invention as applied to a flannel shirt and carried out in the form in which I have so far successfully practiced it.

Figure 1 is a front elevatioii of an ordinary blue flannel shirt having my invention embodied in it, and showing the garment as it would appear when the collar is turned outward and downward and thus exposed to view. 5 Fig. 2 is a similar view, showing the appearance the garment presents when (either for the purpose of temporarily applying to the neckbafnd a supplemental collar or making the shirt I appear to be collarless) the collar of the shirt is turned inwardly and down out ofsigh't. Fig.

3 is a detail sectional view at the line a; w of Fig. 1, illustrating the structure of the collar, neckband, and the upper portion of the body of the garment, and the arrangement together ofthese parts under the conditions ofuse shown at Fig. 1. Fig. 4is a sectional view at the line y y of Fig. 2, illustrating the structure and arrangement together of these same parts under the conditions of'use illustrated at Fig. 2; and Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the shirt with its bosom unbuttoned and frontopening distended to partially show the interior of the garment with the collar turned in, as seen at Fig. 2;, and thus better illustrate particularly the plan 7 of the arrangement together of the collar and neckbaiid and body portion of the garment.

In the several figures the same-parts will be found designated by the same reference-letters.

A is the main body portion, B the tail part,

0 O the sleeves, and D the neckband, of the shirt illustrated, all of which parts are represented as being made in about the usual approved manner. 7

The shirt shown is made to open at the bosom, and, being closed up about the body and around the neck of thewearer, is fastened down the bosom opening by buttons 0 e, and at the neck by a but-ton,f. Other buttons are provided at g and h, for the convenient securement to the outer side of the neckband ofa supplemental collar whenever the wearer of the shirt may elect to apply such separate collar, turning in and out of sight the perma- 5 nently-attached collar I of the garment. The collar I is not only combined with the upper part of the garment in anovel manner, but is also constructed on a new plan. It is applied to and secured on the inner side of the body roe portion of the shirt and below the line ofjuuction of said portion of the shirt with the lower edge of the nechband D. V

In practicing my invention so far I have sewed the united edge of the collar I to the inner side of the body portion of the shirt at a line some distance-say about three-eighths of an inch-helow the bottom of the neckband, and by a seam running about parallel with that which unites the neckband to the shirtbody, all as clearly illustrated, (see Fig. 5;) but of course it is not material whether the line of attachment of the collar to the shirt (in the manner described) be nearer to or farther from the line of union of the neckband I) and body portion of the shirt, it being understood that said line of attachment must be below the neckband, and should he far enough below it (according to the character of the material composing the garment and the shape of the latter) to get all the advantages of a strip (of greater or less width) of the single ply and flexible body portion of the garment intermediate of (the more rigid) neckband and the collar I. Said collar, it will be seen, is made single (or one ply in thickness) from its attached edge to the line in m, along which line runs a seam securing the edge of the doubled-over portion, or two plies, that extend from said line at in to the free edge and hem of the collar; and it will be observed that the single ply or thin portion 12 of this collar is in width quite equal to twiccthe width of the neckband D plus the width of the space be tween the lower edge of said band and the line of union of the collar I with the shirtbody. The purpose and effect of this construction are to permit the thin portion only of the collar to be folded over the neckband, and the avoidance of an undesirable accumulation of thicknesses of stuff about the neck when the collar I is arranged for use as seen at Figs. 1 and 3.

By the attachment of the collar I to the inner side of'the body portion of the shirt in substantially the manner shown not only can the several parts of the shirt be put together very conveniently and economically, but the collar can be made to fit better the person of the wearer, both when turned out for use, as seen at Figs. 1 and 3, and when turned in for disuse, as seen at Figs. 2, 4, and 5.

It the line of attachment of the collar I to the body portion of the shirt be located sufficiently far below the lower edge of the neckbaud D, the flexible and comparatively unconfined portion of the shirt-body, intermediate of this line of attachment and the comparatively rigid and more securely held neckband, operates to yield slightly to any tendency of the turned-in collar to adapt itself to the shape of the person of the wearer of the garment;

and, furthermore, the placement of this line of attachment at a proper distance below the lower edge of the (rigid and securely clasped) neckband operates to bring the turned-under collar lower down on the body, and into a position in which it can more easily fit to the person without crinkling or folding or drawing, than it the attached edge of the collar were up at or closer to the smaller neck-portion of the garment.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-- 1. In a shirt or analogous garment, the combination, with the neckband and bod y portion of the garment, of a collar secured to the said body portion at its inner side and below the said: nechband, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

2. In a shirt or analogous garment, a collar secured to the inner side of the garment, and having that portion which folds over or about the neckband when the collar is turned out for use made thinner than the rest, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and seal this 9th day of May, 1882.

ISAAC WVALLACH. [L. 8.]

In presence of How. STEINDLER, JACOB FELBEL. 

